&1987

This appears to be only a partial journal of my travel in Africa in 1987. This journal picks up in November in West Africa in Lome, but prior to the beginning of these writings, I had gone to Greece with my father, then with him to Africa. During my few days in Greece, I’d flown to Santorini and walked extensively, finding shelter at a beach. Afterwards, we flew to Nairobi. It was my second trip to Africa, his first. I invited him to come with me and to my surprise, he agreed. We had gone for the purpose of seeing the wildebeest migrate. First we went to the Masai Mara and drove around the Mount Kenya massif. On our first day out, my father said he did not want to drive at night, so we made a pact that we would not. Of course, the first night, I was still taking photographs at dusk and we arrived at night. A few days later, we were being driven down the road at night from Nairobi to Arusha. I looked in the back seat. There was my father, laying in the back, smoking a cigarette with complete nonchalance. I thought to myself, “He has really gotten into the swing of things!” In the Serengeti we found the information we’d been unable to find from home; these were years before Yahoo and Google! So, we found out we’d come at the wrong time of year. So, we came back again and saw them in 1989. I have left in my notes (prices, schedules, problem solving, etc.) at the end of the journal for posterity. A ??? indicates I need to research the original handwritten manuscript to check the spelling or meaning….
In this journal there are some comments on social philosophy. I see that I had left out of my writing a few interludes with African women. Jeff Shea, Singapore, 2009

John Jeffrey Shea
486 UTAH STREET,SAN FRANCISCO,
CALIFORNIA,94107,USA

“Mobility is the hallmark of Freedom“
Jeff … thought on 4 Dec 87 En la Nuit afer having Baggage detained in Niamey

— Language is deception.

“I don’t like to be cheated. I prefer to cheat.“
Heinz
12/9/87

OCTOBER 1987
F 9 Airplane from San Fr\ancisco, USA
SA 10 Athens, Greece
SU 11 Peressa, Santorini Is., Greece
M 12 Athens, Greece
TU 13 Airplane enroute to Nairobi
W 14 Norfolk Lodge, Nairobi, Kenya
TH 15 Norfolk Lodge, Nairobi, Kenya
F 16 Fig Tree, Masai Mara, Kenya
SA 17 Sand River, Masai Mara, Kenya
SU 18 Naivasha Lodge, Kenya
M 19 New Bandas, Kenya
TU 20 Norfolk Lodge, Nairobi, Kenya
W 21 Arusha,Tanzania Hotel, Equator
TH 22 Manyara Guest House, Tanzania!
F 23 Seronera, Serengeti Lodge
SA 24 Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, Tanzania!
SU 25 Manyara Lodge, Tanzania
M 26 Arusha, Tanzania
TU 27 Nairobi, Norfolk Lodge, Kenya
W 28 Nairobi, Norfolk Lodge, Kenya
TH 29 Nairobi, Norfolk Lodge, Kenya
F 30 Hotel Boulevard, Nairobi, Kenya
SA 31 Hotel Boulevard, Nairobi, Kenya

NOVEMBER 1987

SUN 1 Hotel Boulevard, Nairobi, Kenya
M 2 Hotel Boulevard, Nairobi, Kenya
TU 3 Bukavu, Zaire Hotel Residence!!!
W 4 Bukavu, Zaire Hotel Longoma!!
TH 5 Goma, Zaire Mont Goma hotel
F 6 Hotel Olympia, Kisangani, Zaire
SA 7 Hotel Olympia, Kisangani, Zaire
SU 8 Hotel Olympia, Kisangani, Zaire
M 9 Hotel Olympia, Kisangani, Zaire
TU 10 Mont Goma Hotel, Goma, Zaire
W 11 Hotel Ril!!, Goma, Zaire
TH 12 Hotel Regine, Kinshasa, Zaire
F 13 Kinshasa, Zaire
SA 14 Kinshasa, Zaire
SU 15 Lome, Togo
M 16 Lome, Togo
TU 17 Accra, Ghana
W 18 Takoradi, Ghana (Beachway Hotel is nice)
TH 19 Kumasi, Ghana!!
F 20 Berekum, Ghana
SA 21 Abidjan, Ivory Coast (59)
SU 22 Abidjan, Ivory Coast
M 23 Man, Ivory Coast!!
TU 24 Touba, Ivory Coast
W 25 Samatiquila, Ivory Coast
TH 26 enroute to Bamako, Mali (60)
F 27 enroute to Mopti, Mali
SA 28 Mopti, Mali
SU 29 Mopti, Mali
M 30 on road to Inde, Dogon village, Mali

TU December 1 Koro, Mali
W 2 Ouahigouya, Bukina Faso (61)
TH 3 50 kilometers before Fada-Ngourma, Burkina Faso
F 4 Niamey, Niger (62)
SA 5 Niamey,Niger
SU 6 Niamey, Niger
M 7 Niamey, Niger
TU 8 Niamey ,Niger
W 9 Niamey, Niger
TH 10 Niamey, Niger
F 11 Madrid, Spain
SA 12 Madrid, Spain
SU 13 Madrid, Spain

November 13, 1987
(A)
At this late date I am trying to make decision to complete the rest of this short time and do so having the best time possible, time intelligently, spent I have 31 days or 38 days if add a weeks extension to the trip. Among my problem and I will list them, are:

I} To corner the Sahara
II} To mail back some of my things
III} To call home soon.
IV} To trace parcels and mail from Nairobi [left film] & Bangui [forwarded to DHL]
V} To have fun,
VI} To see at least, say 5 new countries not including Algeria & Morocco

These objectives are so at contradiction with each other! Especially -
/-\ To have fun but be forced to travel so quickly and
/-\ To see so many places and get home so soon.

As I see it the mast viable options are:
A. To fly tonight to Lagos
B. To fly tomorrow to Lome, Togo
C. To fly tomorrow to Dovala Via Brazzaville
D. To fly to Accra
E. To fly to Abidajn

These suggestions must then be analyzed with regard to what follows and each of them has drawbacks.

November 15, 1987 Lome, Togo
(S)
It’s the same old thing, the brutal clash between what is and what was, between what’s pure and what’s corrupt. It actually turns my stomach, the imagined dignity crumble to dust in my imagination – what people will do, a selling out of culture.

November 17, 1987 Lome, Togo
(A)
I just had all my hair cut off but I did not have my head shaved. It feels good to do something for the first time, it was like cutting off fear!
I am amazed by how inexpensive airfreight can be. This opens up a world of possibilities.
Charley, an incredible guy who sleeps next to his vault of money (“They just went to get 7 million CFA…”),says that in Central African Republic, they have to cull the elephants because there are too many of them. Either this year or next.
***
Today I am off for 10 days, at which point I expect to be in Benin. From Kara Togo to Abomey Benin to Lagos then North North North.

Thursday November 19, 1987 (on train to Kumasi. If only I had a few more weeks…)
(A)(E)

So much has happened since October 9 I haven’t been writing but my urge to write in the first person is overwhelming, so at least this once I will indulge myself.
First there is the idea to write a book, “How to travel” I would cover every point regarding that subject. Let me explain:

A. Personal Objectives – Everyone travels for a reason. What are your reasons? To satisfy curiosity, to educate oneself, to relax, to experience life in a different culture to have an exciting time, to take photographs, to enjoy, buying things, etc.
B. Getting Going – Where to choose to go. How to deal with finance. Length of the journey. Straightening out personal matters. This section would take someone from zero to reality – especially for those, who find themselves thinking they can’t afford it but really want to go.

1. Where to Go -
I) The first world – USA, Canada, Europe West, Australia
II) The 2nd world – communist block nations in Europe & Asia
III) The 3 world – Central & So. America Africa, Asia

2. Dealing with Finances – whatever you can scrape together will suffice. Taking care of all the details: car registration, rents, storage, safety deposit boxes, taxes, can you keep your job or do you have to quit.
3. Length of Journey – Going fast going slow whether or not to make specific plans, personal preferences, making use of maps, studying, basic principles of probability – for e.g. what is the likelihood you can find transport from one place to the other. If you are operating under a return date, how you should determine how much you can undertake. There’s always some sort of schedule if you’re moving. Merits of sitting still vs. Merits of taking in the sights.
4. Personal Matters – How to deal with relationships & job.
5. Medicines – Most to get, world health situation, malaria & what the score is, diarrhea – what medicines to bring for gastrointestinal disorders – what medicines you can get, what you can do to prevent it – peeled fruits, dry countries, the possibility that alcohol can help prevent it, the safeness of a lot of street food, other drugs, what to do if you get diarrhea, malaria, and other situations, keep prescriptions in their containers, Pepto-Bismol tablets,
6. Baggage – The obvious advantages of traveling light, what pack to get, tennis shoes, Hiking boots, maps, therma-rest, small flashlight, recommended equipment (canteens type: stove, sunglasses, hat, sleeping bag,
7. Visas – visa services if you are under time constraints embassies & consulates, cities wish a lot of embassies, travel photographs getting a large passport, puce vary for the same visa, getting a visa in a pinch, country hopping

C. Methods of Traveling – Advantages, Disadvantages, when to use them, where to use them,
1. Walking
2. Road
a. Buses
b. Your own car
c. Trucks
d. Hitching
3. Rail
4. Plane
a. International
b. Private planes
5. Water
a. Ship
b. Sail boats
c. Local boats
d. Canoes
e. Rafts
f. Kayaks

D. Crime and Protection of your Possession and Yourself.
1. There are safe areas where no one will [go], responsible people, asking people to watch them, paying people to watch them,
How to carry your bags, putting your passport & money in a holder or no, passive crime, non-violent crime, violent crime – where you are likely to encounter it, linking up with people – safety advantages & disadvantages, psychology of the criminal, advantages of looking – affluent - mountain people, village people, city people and relative safety.
The concept of society & people as a whole being good and how this works to your advantage, not displaying your wealth. Understanding what causes people to take your things, travel insurance, police resorts, dividing your risk by putting offsetting things in different bags trains leaving station making people aware of your awareness, looking for avoiding trouble before it finds you. (People that have a business can’t turn away – leave it with them).
2. Dealing with Authorities – not allowing them to get you behind closed doors, politeness, firmness, getting one authority to rescue from another, insistence on doing your business in the public eye, getting the public to rescue you from authorities, making rescue when authorities ask for your possessions, refusing them politely. Acting casual, you don’t have to put up with them acting out of line, special tactics the oddball troublemaker through embarrassment and/or intimidation.
3. Frequent Inventories and Cleaning of your Possessions. Water damage, air drying things out, carrying your own bags, getting assurances from people, asking other travelers what is ahead and asking local people.
4. Getting several opinions on the safety of the place you’re at & the place you’re going. Hearsay – opt for the opinion of the person that has actually been there.

5. The Merits of Communication with the locals self education
6. Language – You’ll find getting a book on the language and studying it will open up a new world to you, even its only for the time your stay there. Lingua franca.
7. Traveling on local transport.
8. Eating food on the street.
9. Staying in villages
10. Studying: maps, botany, flora, fauna, history
11. Asking questions.

F. Accommodation: Leaving things at the receptions, ask 2 or 3 times for a room if they say there is none, check the room over before leaving.
G. Dealing with street vendors try looking them straight in the eye & saying you’re not interested friendly and then walking away they seem to get the message – Bargaining offers.
H. Buying, selling and sending. Choices in sending home them:
1. Surface mail – good countries and bad, insurance, keeping rack of receipts & numbers. How long will it take?
2. Air mail
3. DHL
4. Shipping to the companies
5. Giving stuff to someone returning

Note (format):
The format of this book should be that it should be written & put together with a style that gets across a message. For e.g., If it is dry as the notes, preceding it will imply boredom. It should be fun.

For e.g. when talking of weight.

I. You should be able to dance with your pack.
If you can’t dance with your pack on your back you can be sure you’ve carrying too much. What are you going to do when you are walking down the street at night in Zaire & they grab you & pull you into a bar & expect you to dance?

November 19, 1987 (cont’d with the writing the train.)
(A)

As I had been saying, so much has happened since I left home. I haven’t written much about my experiences. I am very pleased to be seeing western Africa. I am surprised at how much can be seen in a short span of time. Each day is like a golden raindrop.

Just yesterday, I awoke at 5 am in Accra. Determined to see something of the city before I left, I walked to the market at 6 am. The tomato-truck was being unloaded it reminded me of the stock market with all the market makers, tempers, calling out. The women dominated the area, wrapped in clothes of all colors. I perched myself and shot several snaps. Some of the young men & women asked me to take snaps of them. One even took a picture of me, complete with my nearly baldhead. (It’s taking a little getting used to having little hair since I fulfilled my vow to take it all off in Lome. Now I’m hoping it grows fast!)
I made my way to a bus station & boarded a mini bus to Cape Coast. In the terminal, a boy followed me around, begging for money until a man chased him away. I made sure I had the front window and enjoyed the ride. From Cape Coast, I took taxi to Elmena, the attraction being the large castle on the water.
However. It turned out that the real sight was [missing line…].
A throng of boys followed my movements with curious eyes.
One girl wanted her picture taken. She sat with her machete and sugar cane under a wide hat.
I never did take a photo of the castle.
I rode out of town in a small bus and hopped off at a stretch of beach. I went to the other side of the road and took a photo! I did a little bodysurfing. The Atlantic water is warm and refreshing.
On the bus into town, I saw a gang of people having nets in from shore. I snapped the scene. At the end, they had maybe 1000 lbs of small fish a flickering mass of unwilling victims. As they had hauled the nets, they chanted to a leaders prompted, pulling once each time their voices accented.
Waiting at the Takoradi station I was taught a little Fanti and heard the difference between Fanti and Fi. I had fried plantains with beans in a green sauce for 40 cedis (about 19c), which was a new favorite.
We arrived in Takoradi (again the front window seat) about an hour before dusk. I found out the train left in the morning at 6 am, then took a room at the Beach Way Hotel. I took an ice-cold beer down to the beach.
A naked man sat within a large rectangle he had drawn in the sand, reciting mystical verses. Further on the shore a girl rolled her body back and forth in a similar rectangle.
I ran to get my camera and took a picture in the dusk. I waded in the surf, then returned to my hotel.
I spent the evening in town.

November 20, 1987 (on the way to Kumasi)
(A)

At 5 am I hiked to the train station. Standing in line for my ticket, I saw a girl covered with a white paint with intricate designs all over her arms & face. I put my bags in the car and came back to ask for her picture, but she was gone. I never saw a person like this and was amazed, then disappointed to have the missed a photography record.
I arranged a nice window seat and took in the Ghanese forest on the way to Kumasi. It’s the first jungle I’ve seen in memory; jungle as opposed to rain forests. The landscape is something quite unique - heavy jungle with magnificent tall hardwood trees towering, jungle vines hanging from their canopy, their base flanked with broad thin trunk extensions.
In Kumasi, I checked into the Hotel De Kingsway, had a cold beer, then walked across the street and bought a bunch of leather purses & bags.
Later, I went to the main market and bought trade beads. The market and town generally are very picturesque with much life and subtle color.
Ghana reminds me of Burma, both former English colonies, you will find many building remaining from that era, all looking like they haven’t been repaired or cleaned since the British left.

November 21, 1987
(A)
In the morning I asked about for the ruins shown on the map, but no one knew of them. I bought more trade beads. I rushed into a bus, which dropped me in Berekum at about 2:30 pm. The men here wear robes thrown over their left shoulder.
I was having beer with a few of these men and their girlfriends when an unidentified older man began asking me where I was from. No sooner did I realize their presence when these two brothers were on their feet challenging this man. The man said he was a soldier so they asked to see his papers. When he was found out to be not a soldier, they took his identity card threatening to report him “impersonating an officer” soon everyone in the place was yelling and carrying on. I was whisked away into a taxi to a hotel to avoid trouble.
From the sublime to the ridiculous… checkpoints in CI.
1) GHANA, the immigration.
2) ½ hour going through my baggage. Then into CI.

They spend ½ hour picking through my baggage, saying they have to keep the binoculars. I told them that I had to bring them home because they are my fathers. Then a checkpoint about 5 km down the road where the officer, drunk, takes the drivers bread loaf against his will. Then they want to search my bags again going into it, but I talk them out of a thorough search. Leaving a passport check. Four km further another check.
Further checkpoint to times spent: 4:35pm – 4:40, 4:48-4:52, 5:01-5:02, 5:06-5:11, 5:17-5:20(#10), 5:33-5:35, 5:58-6:03, 6:18-6:24, finally at the 15th checkpoint (at 7:45) I encountered an English speaking guard demanding to search my bags. At last I had the opportunity to express myself. While I’m getting my bag down - “Now wait a minute while I’m working, I want to ask you a question.
Today I’ve been to 14 checkpoints and at everyone of them I’ve had to show them every thing (a big lie)…now what I want to know is, what in he world could I have done with my bags in between the checkpoints? Put a pistol or machine gun in my bag?” At this point the guard burst into laughter, and while walking away turned around and called out “Alley!” We piled back into the car & my fellow French-speaking passengers laughed and nodded approvingly.
I checked into a rather expensive place because I was stuck – I owed the driver 1500CFA and this hotel was willing to change traveler’s checks (300CFA/$1!)

I showered dancing to the piped-in music, then took a taxi to Treichville amidst warnings on all sides. I left naked without my rungu. As paranoid as I could possibly have been, I ate spaghetti at a street side stand. I made friends with a young man claiming to be from Mali. As the food stand proprietor said I was safe with the Malian, I went with him to a bar. Senegalese, Malian, Zairois music drove the dancers. After I plied myself with several beers joined the crowd on the dance floor till I was drenched in sweat. Between the Malian and two other men there I got weird signals and felt like I was being set up for a con from each of them individually. By the time I took a taxi towards home I felt that maybe Treichville was as bad as they said it was, and between this & today’s checkpoints, I felt like the Cote D’Ivore was a losing proposition and I determined to leave tomorrow.
I got the driver to take me to the Hilton where I telephoned to Dad in the USA.
I told him to forward the Lagos packages to Niamey.
I didn’t sleep till 3:45 am.

November 22, 1987
Abidjan
(A)
All over West Africa, as for as my limited experience indicates, there is a real problem with open sewers. When I was strolling through the Kumasi market during the heat of the morning, the rising stench literally made me gag!
Ivory Coast is, rather Abidjan is, one of the filthiest places ever. The market at Adjame is full of trash.

Today has shed a rather different interpretation of Abidjan. Waking determined to depart of once, I now find myself at 7 pm sitting in a local food stall listening to rhythmic music and enjoying a cup of over sweetened coffee.
When I went to the Hilton to get some CFA for the next week, happened into the gift shop. The carving was sensational. I got the young man, Victor, to educate me as to where I could find these masks on the map. It drew a neat line from Abidjan to Man, Odienne and Korhogo, a perfect route towards Burkena & Mali. Victor was off for lunch & he took me to the Grand Marche at Treichville. Further, he alleged my fears as to the dangers. Today, I had it from several people that the dangers people had pointed in my mind were exaggerated. As far as I can make out, the real danger is certain streets in Treichville at night.
The Triechvillle market was wonderful. There is ivory, ebony, cloth, and amber, jewelry all worked excellently. We bargained. I got two shirts and some jewelry. The ivory was very expensive compared with Zaire, though the workmanship was superior. The amber was much less than Nairobi, but I was told that it will be even cheaper in Mali.
Victor & I went to a local restaurant & had spicy chicken & grated manioc. He told me that the route to Man was good and that beyond Man, the road through to Korhogo was in good shape, thinking that I had rally wanted to go to Man in the first place, coupled with the artwork on the map, and a desire to see something of CI, all these overwhelmed my idea to go out of town on the night train: Further, prefer, to travel during the day to see the road. On top of all this, Victor said he knew of some good dancing places in Treschville; since last night was a wash I decided to search for some of those great clubs the book portends. I changed hotels, on a 1½ hour walk through the market. The stalls sprawl all over Adjame. It is astounding to me how many vendors there are. The city is bustling with Muslims, women & children. Garbage, taxis, and black Africans involved in every trade imaginable.
After walking into the dusk & the dark, I changed my mind about Cote D’ Ivoire & Abidjan. No one really bothered me. Police are few and don’t bother anyone. The level of energy in the city is only comparable to India.
The West Africans I have seen in Ghana & CI, the majority, have scars on their faces denoting where they are from. It is a wondrous demarcation, which is apparently performed on young children with a razor.
Some are as simple as a single scar on a cheek (as a Berekum) and some are intricate designs swirling around the face.
…
As it turned out. I never had a chance to visit the nightclubs. Victor got off at 8 p.m. He wanted to hear my song tape deck on his system at home first. It turned out of to Abidjan. I met his wife & clan. The tape deck sounded so much better that his own, I was wondering if I’d get out of there with it. He did suggest I leave it there. We had some delicious supper and left for town. By the time we got there, it seemed like a bad idea because he’d have to pay CFA 4000 to get back after midnight so we picked up some cassettes which I’d ordered & I dropped off at my hotel about midnight & he continued to Abobo.
It was the first night I’ve gone without a beer in quite awhile, and frankly, I missed it. This weather has turned me into a beer drinker.

November 23, 1987
(A)
I can’t say that so far I find Cote D’ Ivorre comparable to the other places I’ve visited this trip. For one thing, I’m not enchanted by all the development here. Commercialism is rampant. To me, it spells the following: the people are not as happy here, the woman have sour looks on their faces, the landscape is being scarred, the music lacks the raw verve of Africa (instead it reverts to the boring and bland French and American styles).
I’m now riding out to Man and wondering if I made the wrong decision. I’m over 2/3 of the way & I might as well have gone at night. The scenery is nothing really special. Though reminiscent of Ghana’s jungle it doesn’t appear as striking. All the development makes me feel as if I’m at home!
I can’t explain adequately why I found Ghana picturesque and CI blasé. For e.g., in Ghana, the lighting always seemed to make every thing photogenic, but here not. Last night, I poked my head in a bar. In contrast to, say, Zaire (where lovely music, cheap beer, great dancers and local people meet) there were several white people & several black prostitutes. Many black women here straightened their hair so they can look European. I find it ridiculous and think that the average African woman looks great in the imaginative myriad of braiding styles.
The ride to Man was very unspectacular. The books description nestling in a green hollow high in the mountains is a very inaccurate and flattering description. Man cannot be more than 1000 feet in elevation, which hardly qualifies as “high in the mountains.” Further, if this is “probably the most attractive of Ivorian towns” then the Ivory Coast has probably got serious problems in that department.
I went to look at masks in the evening. I made an offer of $210 for five supposedly old masks & one new carving and one mask from Gabon. I have little idea whether or not this is a bon prix – My only indicator was that at home at the artery, I saw similar masks selling for $200 – 300 which would make $35 each an acceptable price.
My major concern now is time. My schedule is once again falling apart, predominantly because of the expected delays I anticipate in traveling to Timbuktu in Mali.
I am a bit disheartened to leave black Africa so soon. The Muslim influence begins very strongly from here north.
I had a beer, then dinner on the street.

November 24, 1987 1:30 am
(A)(F)
First there was color. Color came into being of itself.
Then came Darkness. Darkness came into being for the beauty of the opposite.
The Universe was borne of the union of these two gods, color & darkness. Everything within it is comprised of a proportion of each. The synergy which binds all things together is Beauty. Beauty is love.

~~~

I hate to keep making complaints but Ivory Coast is bringing me right down. I should have followed my instincts… in the first place, not even beer interested [me] in coming here, but when I asked Doug the country he’d like to go to, he said CI & I let it influence my decision. Secondly I wish to God I’d never met Victor. Not only did I stay over in Abidjan to visit the bon night clubs which I never got to and which were probably a figment of his imagination, but I let his total approval of Man and glowing description influence me into going there. This is just another example of how foolish I can be. I recall myself thanking Victor in earnest for influencing me! Now I’ll be lucky to get out of here spending 5 days. To think I could have spent it in Benin!
The inflation is rampant in this country! A ride in Ghana for e.g., the train from Takoradi to Kumasi 1st class is 650 cedis or about 750 CFA. A ride from Abidjan to Fecke – about twice the distance, is 3700, or for an equivalent distance, about 3700, which is roughly 5 times the cost. I’m trying to remember how much the bus from Kumasi to Berekum was, but a similar distance in CI is Touba to Odicnne, which is 2500 CFA, I know the baggage for the ride in Ghana was no more than 120 CFA. In CI, they asked 1000 settled for 500 CFA. This sort of inflation reminds me of Argentina.
In all fairness, I don’t know the better part of the country, which is in the bush. In all probability, the bush here is maybe even comparable to that of Ghana. I don’t really know.
One thing I do like about CI is that they have plenty of sidewalk stands selling coffee made with sweet or regular condensed milk and Nescafe it costs about 125 or 175 CFA with a piece of bread with margarine.

On Tuesday:
Do I have to recount the morning! After I got out of the hotel, I went to the market to check on the prices of masks. I felt that in comparison to the shop last night that the items in the market were predominantly made for the tourist trade, although some of the workmanship was fine. To make it worse, the prices were not much better. Rather reluctantly I went to the bank to cash money to buy the pieces I’d set aside last night. We finally agreed on CFA 70,000, which was 8000 more than my original offer of 62,000 – and I think it was a fair deal.
I subsequently boxed the masks, including the leather from Ghana, 11 kg in all. To my chagrin pursuing the freight company was a total waste of time. Worse yet, the only man at the post who handles parcels was sick. I decided to continue on with the extra caution.
I took a local car to Biankouma. The Michelin map describes the stretch of road as being picturesque, but there was a haze over it and it wasn’t spectacular, as I’d suspected.
Worse yet, when I got there, there was no bus office (as it been promised), which went to Odienne in the evening. Instead, I got as far as Tabova. I got a hotel walked around the town. I had a conversation with a young man and I went into my usual speech about how Western society is a digression from the true valves of community, family, and simplicity, which bring real happiness. Instead, Cote D’Ivoire is [on] a collision course for the same preoccupation with material goods that we suffer from at home.

November 25, 1987 Samatiguila
(A)
I got an early morning bus to Odienne. This began yet another day of fiasco in the Ivory Coast. I went to the post office to get rid of 11 kg worth of masks. The only man who handles parcels had left, why no one knew. The taxi man who was going to wait decided to leave instead. Several minutes later, I realized he had my pack. I was told that the PO employees know the taxi and that he would return. When I had been here another minute, I was angry, realizing the taxi man might never return. No sooner than I stormed over to the gendarmerie than the man returned with my pack. Still the post office clerk was missing, so to vent off my impatience I went & found a car to Tienko at 3:30 pm. Just before now the clerk returned & I sent the 11 kg for 16000 CFA, about $60 by boat, being told it would take only 2 months, (I’ll be happy if it arrives in double the time.)
I had rice with peanut butter sauce, a delicious West African dish, then I walked in the market.
At 3:30 I was told I’d have to wait till tomorrow. I decided to back to Yamoussoukro & get a train to Bobo or Feche. As I was about to leave on the bus, a man from Maniagan station drove by and said he was going to Tienkon I asked him to wait but he drove off which put doubts in my mind as to his sincerity. Then another man assured me that he was lying so I bought my ticket again. (I had gotten a refund and had been loading my bags into a taxi back to Maningan) and we set off towards Abidjan. I asked an English–speaking boy his opinion & before I knew it there was a caucus on the bus, the bus stopped, they took off my bags and assured me it was better to go north to Tienko tomorrow.
A man drove me to Maningan, but the car had actually left already. I went back to Abidjan station, got a refund. By this time my mind was resolved to travel directly north, even if it meant I had to walk from Odienne all the way to the main road in Mali (about 220 km.) I reasoned that would he the worst that could happen and I needed the exercise and I wanted to see some countryside anyway.
I HAD FORGOTTEN RESOLVE, so I deserved to suffer.

RESOLVE AND GOOD LUCK ARE TWINS.

I returned to Maningan station and had a parting liter of beer. Amidst pleas that I would surely be beaten by bandits & relieved of my baggage should I walk in the night, I began to walk in the dusk! I soon got a lift about 5 km. This man also said there were bandits & asked if I had a pistol for protection. I showed him my Kenyan runguu. Moments later he was saying there are bandits in Abidjan but not out here. (?) I didn’t hesitate, being so frustrated with the people of Ivory Coast, I figured the worst that could happen was that they would kill me, which was a slightly preferable fate than to sit in Odienne one more hour listening to peoples endless speculations being stated as solid fact! I walked for 45 minutes. One car passing me but not stopping, and came upon two men fixing a motorbike, on the road. I lent them my flashlight. One wanted to buy my camera & urged me to return to Odienne whereupon in the morning he would surely buy my camera.
A truck came by & I hailed it as I tried to convince the driver to take me as far as samitiguri, his destination, the boy who wanted my camera told him I should return to Odienne. I prevailed due to one of the passengers who convinced the driver to take me along.
We arrived after 40 minutes in the town, I was invited by a teacher (the man in the cab) to stay at his house. Frank & I shared dinner, his pupils waiting on us. We had the most incredible discussion about politics, what is governing the world, mankind, etc.
We drank a bottle of wine as he was out of beer.
At about midnight I retired on the couch.

November 26, 1987 Samatiguila
(A)
Waking in Samatiguila I had coffee. Frank & I continued over discussions. We walked down the road a bit & bid farewell.
After 1 hour & 20 minutes I was beginning to dread having to keep up such a pace for 12 hours a day for 3 or 4 days. I was walking with a Muslim who, with his son, was also traveling by foot to Tienko. I tried to ignore this indication of the lack of transport. I heard a motor. The Muslim said it was only a motorbike I said ”So!” I hailed the driver. He was a customs agent going to Tienko. We raced off. I was thankful. We drove to Tienko & then beyond. I’m thinking the map doesn’t show this road and this guy has a rifle slung over his shoulder. I’m trying to read the shadows and as nearly as I could tell we were heading NW back to the main road.
We came to a customs post. I was invited to eat lunch. After I took a bunch of photos of the village we were at. All neat straw roofs, nearly all the buildings were round. It was picturesque. The children are eager to have their picture taken.
The guard is prepared to take me by moto to Tienfinzo, the border post. But a car pulls up, a Peugot minibus w/o windows. It’s going to Manankoro, the Malian side of the frontier. My luck is changing. I thank God for people like that customs man and his friends.
At the Ivorian Customs I discover this bus is going all the way to Bamako. My luck is really changing. I can’t wait to get out of Cote D’Ivoire. I can’t wait to get into Mali. We pass a marker signifying were in Mali. All my tension passes. I don’t care now if I wait two days in Manankoro. It’s odd that the moment I got to Cote D’Ivoire I did not like it. I found the people distressing. They seem to interrupt, talk over each other, say things as fact that are only supposition or worse yet just not true. They seemed aggressive. They didn’t seem to be, especially around Man, they didn’t seem to smile much or be happy. In fact the women seemed downright ugly in many areas.
Now we passed into Manankoro I love everyone. I am patient. The people are attractive, friendly relaxed.
Oddly enough I had a few people here get on my arm asking me questions obnoxiously. Guess where they were from? – Ivory Coast! And I found out after the fact in at least one case. This is so odd. The Malians are attractive people.

Personal Reflections:

One good that came out of going CI is that Victor brought me to that record shop where I heard a Malian tape, which I had made. I’ve been listening to it over & over. It’s fantastic – another artist I’ve found emulate.

*****

November 25-26, 1987 Bamako
(A)(S) Discussions with Frank
Amongst the interesting points. I asked Frank if his people still had vestiges of resentment towards the people that colonized them. He said that they didn’t. I told him I was surprised that they had absorbed culture so readily. He made an analogy: he said when two cultures meet he considers it as if a bridge has been formed with information flowing both ways. That’s a beautiful description.
I countered with the example of New Guinea, where our culture that there is no chance for us to learn the things they have to teach us because it will be gone before Western man realizes the lessons they have to teach.

Frank & I entered into a discussion. He talked about how much of our lives we really control, given that from birth we are influenced by our parents and surroundings. He gave the example of how we are given a name, henceforth to be called by it, for the rest of our lives, and we have no choice over this label.
He said that we say a baby cries when it is born in order to catch its first breath, but he says …it is a because it is frightened by new surroundings. (Perhaps it is both and that’s how nature utilizes the fright.
Frank asked me if I thought we were Gods or could become Gods(!!) I said I used to entertain that idea but now I think we, as humans, are so pitifully powerless and ignorant, there could be no godhood for us. In the grand scope of comparison between what we know (and retain and can do) and what there is to know. The fact that he even asked me such a question blew my mind.

November 25, 1987 (cont.)
(S)(!!)
I brought up my opinion that beyond food, protection from the elements and a mate everything else man has is superfluous and a matter of choice. It is truly amazing, then, the diversity of the ways man chooses to spend his energy. And this is all summed up in that a person‘s orientation and what he is motivated toward is dependent on the status structure of the culture he is in, he himself influencing that structure only slightly. Then individualism is merely a slight variation on a theme, and is a personal interpretation of a well-beaten path.
As examples of the absurdity of man‘s non-essential pursuits:
i) New Guinea men wearing watches that don’t work, and they wouldn’t know how to read them anyway.
ii) Men admiring women according to what represents wealth: when food was scarce, fat women were in, when industrialized society brought plenty of food but sedentary jobs, fat women were out, and slim women were in.

Likewise, light colored people used to keep indoors as a status symbol because only peasants had to work out in the sun. Now light people go out to get “tans.“ Tans are admired because only people who can afford the leisure time are out playing sports or on the beach in the sun. Beach people in Africa apply a “lightening cream“ to their skin-why? Because light colored people are more affluent. And so on!

Where does this lead us? It gives us an insight into behavior. We must keep in mind whether behavior is caused due to direct necessity or whether satisfy the requirement of a Status structure. To some extent, the status structure indirectly affects a persons ability to meet their necessities of life - to hold a job, you have to wear an unessential tie, for e.g., but the job supplies necessary cash for food. The end objective is to arrive at theoretical status structures that make sense, and to test them and evolve a strategy for implementation!

November 26, 1987
(A)
It is almost ludicrous that I am waiting in this beautiful serene border town and can spot a person form Cote D’Ivoire because their obnoxiousness stands out like a sore thumb against the gentle, dignified Mali people. A bus came in and I thought it must be from Cote D’Ivoire because the people running the bus were yelling rudely to the passengers, who looked to be from Mali. One of the men on my bus is from CI and he is following me around hugging me, one other is occasionally saying “Mister where are you from??“ The other people here are all Malions.

It was the best of fortunes to get on the bus. The driver had been sleepy, and slept from about 4 in the afternoon until 8 at night. We all waited patiently. I was in a state of pure bliss. I took photos of the village people, who were eager to be photographed. We sat on mats on the ground, made tea, conversed. I was invited to eat rice and ground nut sauce with a group of ladies. The red sunset and the white moon rose. All was tranquil at about 8 we left and passed through immigration. I listened to the Malian tape while bouncing along the piste. The difference of the road on the Malian side of the frontier was tremendous. On the CI side it was graded. Mali was a bumpy path through the sahel. Of course I preferred the bumpy path.
The night was a series of catnaps for me. Prior to midnight, the men and women, most under 30 carried on in a way I never before saw. They laughed then roared about things I could not understand. Liveliness and pure enjoyment and happiness were a spectacle to behold. I thought to myself “What an outstanding contrast to the solemn behavior on the buses in Cote D’Ivoire. Each place in the world offers a real contrast to another!

At 2 pm or so we stopped at __________ at 2 am we reached the main road. They kept the engine running so they didn’t have to push start the car. I would exit the bus – escape the exhaust and go and sit next to a fire, handy for the guards in the cold Harmattan night.
We arrived in Bamakon shortly after 6:30 am just before the red sun cut the haze in the horizon.

November 27, 1987 Mopti
(A)
Since I last wrote I have come to Mopti from Bamako.
When I‘d arrived in Bamako I purchased a ticket to Mopti then went into Bamako. I called Dad but got the recording as it was past midnight there. I left a short message and was charged for three minutes. I went to the market and bought a purse, 2 strands of old red beads and a strand of black and one of red of the plastic disc type of necklace. The prices were fairly high.
I rushed back to the station only to wait for about 4½ hours to leave. During this time, I walked about, lost a game of checkers, drank a beer, slept ate and chatted with people.
The truck to Mopti left around 4 with the usual delay just outside of town at the gendarmerie. I learned soon enough that I had chosen the wrong seat - probably the worst on the whole truck. The seats in the back run along the sides and then parallel to the cab seat, forming ¾ of a rectangle. The seat I chose was in one of the corners of the rectangle, which is fine for people who stand three feet tall or have no legs. However, I was somehow expected to fit my legs in between, knees blocking me on both sides. Because my dread was so great of spending my second night in a row in a truck and in such a pathetic posture, the reality turned out to be not quite as bad. Whenever we stopped I got out and stretched. We stopped perhaps 50 times enroute to Mopti, usually in order for the driver to put more oil or water in the engine and on occasion to change or reset the points.
The land was dusty and dry we passed villages constructed of adobe walls with many roofs made of thatch. In the wee hours of the morning, a hot cup of sweet coffee suited me fine. Towards morning I began to get claustrophobic.
One woman on the truck was accompanied by two young men. They looked like nomads perhaps Touaregs. They wore the gris-gris pouches. They spoke not a word of French. When I pointed to the gris-gris pouch and provoked a question with a gesture of my hands, he just looked rather embarrassed.
At one point in the evening the driver brought two more people on board. Everyone was disgruntled and we collectively put up an argument, which quite agitated the driver. I had known the mild discomfort was too good to be true, and now I became educated as to what the term “packed like sardines.“

We arrived in Mopti about 10 pm.

November 28, 1987
(A)
I was exhausted when we arrived but still I considered going straight out to Bandiagara in Dogon country. It was hot. I walked back and forth with my baggage until I gave up searching for the hotel and had a beer at a bar some one had directed me to as having been a hotel. I enlisted the help of one of the many young men who, like leeches, attach themselves to you the moment you step off the bus. I was surprised to find it so well passed by tourists (deducing this from the amount of such “guides.”
I dropped my bags off at the Hotel Mali. The guide took me to the market. I bought a large blanket, which I thought quite beautiful for $40.
We went to the office of the large boat to Timbuktu only to find out that it left Thursday and the next one was not until next Friday. Searching for other possibilities, I found out that the “pinasse“ would take between 3 and 5 days. None of these possibilities were as bad as the prospect of having to exit Timbuktu for that seemed equally as difficult. Further, all interval air flights were out of service! Thus, even if I got there, it might take between 3 to 8 days to get to Gao or go back to Mopti. It was a hard fact for me to face.
After that, I took some pictures. The small port is quite fascinating. By the time all the business was done, it was dark. I had a cheap groundnut stew dinner (with rice 100 CFA) and went back to the hotel. I showered and went straight to bed and to sleep.
I had thought it would be an uncomfortable room. The hotel is dreary, and it serves also as a brothel. However, there was a nice draft in my room, and I woke refreshed in the cool of the thick cement walls of my room.
We arrived in Mopti about 10 pm.

November 29, 1987
(A)
I had my door open after my morning shower and a German man rooming next door popped his head in the doorway. His English was quite good. He wanted to know if I wanted to share expenses for a guide to take us on the river.
It turned out to he a 5000 CFA day, 2500 each, which was too much since we could‘ve taken a walk along the river and 100 CFA across the river and perhaps seen much the same thing. However, we spent 7½ hours on the river and shore and it was quite pleasant, the lapping of the water and all.
The German fellow, Marty, also turned out to he an interesting person, and although he probably sometimes stated facts beyond the range of his knowledge, he was an anthropologist and had a lot of interesting things to say.
We went to a Bozo village, then crossed the village and went to anther Bozo village. We went back down river in our 20-foot pirouge, to a Peul (Fuloni) village. In both these villages many girls worked bare-breasted. We passed Mopti still on the Bani River and went to the opposite shore. We walked through a Jongrai village and across to Niger river. We sat with a small clan of Touareg woman who tried to get us to buy their trinkets. They tried to sell their gris-gris. Marty, being an anthropologist, was trying to get them to explain what the gris-gris was made of. They showed us some material that looked like a piece of paper with someone’s phone number on it that has been through the wash, but other than that, it was a question mark.

We went back to Mopti and to our hotel. We showered and went out. We went to the night market. There we got delicious roast beef for 250 CFA, and for 5 CFA each, pieces of taco (or manioc) deep-fried and served with a delicious sauce with onions in it.
We happened upon a local celebration. There, were 3 young men dancing and 3 playing drums. They were surrounded by perhaps 100 Africans. The inner circle of spectators was eagerly comprised of young girls.

One at a time, the men danced. Each would go around in circles stomping their feet and kicking their knees high with tremendous rapidity. They would last perhaps 20 seconds at this pace at which point they would settle back to slow swaying to the drums. Another would flail after a few minutes and each time this tremendous display of energy occurred, it invigorated the crowd even further. Then, one by one girls swirled into the center of the circle swinging around and around, the crowd yelling & crying out with glee, until the gathering seemed almost in a frenzy. Finally, the 3 boys danced again, each of two of them alternating donning a woman’s cloth and making woman’s movements to the amusement of the crowd, particularly the girls. The remaining young man had on a tall hat, which looked to be woven and having cowrie shells and other decoration on it. The boy with the hat and the boy with the skirt began to dance together, the crowd cheered, the excitement peaked. Then the boy with the hat grabbed the boy with the skirt around the waist a cry of jubilation went up, the dancing stopped and someone turned to me and said, “c’est fine.“ It seemed to me the symbolism was that of an interpretation of the sexual process and procreation all lead up to the “man“ grabbing the “woman“ and that of course was the culmination of the event.
Afterwards, the crowd dispersed rapidly: I sensed an intense energy lingering with the crowd. In imitation of the dances I danced a jig, which excited the exiting people. A group of young girls clapped & urged me to continue.
I went down to the “Touareg Disco“ which was dispersing. I noted a young man came out carrying a bench on his shoulder. He struck a young girl in the head with the bench… Her reaction and that of her girlfriend was to laugh, followed by laughter from the man carrying the bench. I remarked to myself silently: This is one of he fundamental differences I’ve found between the west & the Third World - here people know how to laugh at themselves.
Marty came out of the hotel. We walked around the town. We found a sidewalk stand selling beef & fresh bread with coffee all of which came to about one dollar.
I was very tired on the walk back to the hotel at about 1:30 am or 2 am. I retired immediately on arrival.

November 30, 1987
(A)(F)
I had to change money, which is one of the banes of traveling third world countries. If you change too much you spend too much or so it seems. If you change too little and need to change, it can distort or confound your schedule and or cost you a fair bit of money seeking a bank, going their paying a service charge or getting a poor rate of exchange at a hotel.
I borrowed 500 CFA from Marty for taxi fare. Of course, one of the men in a string of persons who must give their can give you the money did not show up get so I had the pleasure of accommodating him by waiting. I finally left and went to the bus station to search & find another sardine can to Bankass from where I could hike to a Dogon village 7 miles away. I told the driver I’d return in an hour.
Eventually I got my money, then went to the police station so they could put a stamp in my passport which I believe hereafter proved useless. The man said I must give a 1000 CFA for the stamp. When I protested he indigently threw my passport on the table and said that I’d have to pay 9000 CFA further down the road. Further, without this stamp I wouldn’t even get past the police checkpoints, or something to that effect. He showed me one foot of papers of white people with a photograph attached. Apparently the 1000 CFA made the formalities unnecessary. Properly intimidated, I shelled out the 1000CFA & left.
I paid Marty back his 500 and exchanged addresses.
As usual I took a taxicab in a hurry to the bus station only to have to wait another 3 hours for them to load the truck up with enough people so that we shouldn’t forget we are really just animals.
While waiting, I went to get a coffee. You just can’t mind your business in some places. Not minding my Ps& Qs, I walked in and sat down.

”Il ny’a pas de‚ bon jour’monsieur?“
”Il ny’a pas de ca va? Mansieur?“
(Are there any good day or How are you sir?)
I said my hellos.
Thinking it was a good idea to inspect the coffee when it arrived I sniffed it a challenge came from a man – ”Pour qioi to fait comme sa monsieur?“(Why are you doing that, is it not good?)
I just about left but after my stare of death the challenger left so I drank my coffee.
Finally the bus left. Then we stopped for an hour just outside of town at a checkpoint. (I note I have diarrhea suddenly.)
We drove off the main road towards Bankaso. It was rather uninteresting scenery, with rock outcroppings and villages of houses on stilts same as the houses in the pictures of the Dogon villages. I had seen.
We arrived in Bankass shortly before sunset. I rushed to a “Campment“ and paid 500 CFA to leave my unnecessary baggage the overnight. They tried to convince me to take a guide for 6000 CFA, then 2500 CFA out to the Fogon village. Originally, the guide in Mopti had attempted to convince me to take his friend to Bankass as a guide, which, not including my transport, would’ve been about 13000 CFA. After my experience with a guide on the river it reinforced my initial reluctance for the idea. Now that I was in Bankass, I preferred to walk to the Falaise (escarpment) by myself under he night sky and bright moon.
One of the men sitting by winked & said I could find it myself. The prospective guide walked me to the edge of the village and pointed the way. I stuck to my 2000 CFA offer hoping it would be declined.
A group of friends stood by. It was suggested that I might encounter “sorcerer“ on the road. It was also pointed out to me that I don’t speak Dogon. One man asked for my address. I said I’d give it on my return tomorrow. He shook my hands, with an eerie glint in his eye. Said in French, “I might be dead by tomorrow or maybe you will be. “I thought: If that is the case then there’s really no use in us exchanging addresses is there? All forms of cheap intimidation all serving to convince me I wanted to go alone. I bragged to them how I traveled in far more dangerous places, how I got by using hands and expressions instead of language.
I departed. The road was enough for a truck. It was very beautiful, out there, quiet, moonlit. I had a cigarette, then started considering if there really were sorcerers and got just a tiny bit spooked. I came to a village a man was crying out a chant loud & long, echoing into the muted sounds of women & children bathing at the well in the dark.
“Donne moi un Bic!“ came the children scrambling after me. They are in need of Bic ballpoints. This is not exactly untouched territory. I even get the feeling other tourists have preceded you?
After an hour, I stopped and fell asleep in the deep sand of the road. I awoke suddenly & peered to see a man & a donkey. He sensed my alarm! He wanted to put my bag on his donkey but I declined & he moved on.
As I had planned I walked until I thought I was within about 2 km of Inde. I made camp in the sand. I had a few coffees and fixed dinner. After a hot chocolate I slept.
During the night at least one man on his donkey passed me.

December 1, 1987
(A)
I overslept 6:15 am. B’fast. As I approached the first village people came out wanting to be my guide or wanting a BIC. That’s when I realized I had overslept. I used my utmost diplomacy to circumvent the people. The Dogon village of old on the edge of the escarpment was directly before me.
One young man wasn’t really obnoxious. He brought me to the Chief of the village, certified by the government of Mali, as the papers he brought me showed. That meant be was the village’s official extortionist. He was quite nice really. He asked for 1000 and settled for 500 CFA to see the village, now abandoned. He offered me a chair.
Apparently the Dogon had fled to the escarpment to escape northern tribes. (As told to me by Marty – but keep in mind he also told me - Marty said the Chinese was Tifinar the special alphabet of the Toursy. I said recognizing a Chinese character that it was Chinese. He insisted it was Fifinar. I asked the Touareg women who responded in French – “chinois“) anyway now there was no need for such protection, so they lived in villages on the flat ground.
The old Inde was built below overhanging cliffs reminiscent of American Indian dwellings in the Southwest of the USA.
There were dwellings & structures of sundry shapes and sizes. Old pottery lay all around. It looked as if the land up to the structures was once traced for gardens.
If indeed the village was built for protection, it was a fine sight. The escarpment afforded a view of the surrounding territory for several kilometers.

Across a stretch of land there was a rock perhaps 40 or 50 meters high (or 100?)- that looked perched on a point.
On one of the hats was a pair of human like figures molded in their lines on the side of the walls. Later I recognize that the mask I saw touted as Fogon had a masked resemblance to the two figures put together.

The mask could be arranged something like this. The stick figures, and had the hand up and one down so perhaps the mask is a conglomeration of these two
symbols, one perhaps symbolizing man and one symbolizing women.
I found an old stick, originally used for carrying by a man, but the knob was broken off. It was lying alongside another stick. It reminded me of my Kenyan runguu. I took it along and the guys didn’t seem to mind.
I took several photo of the difference in architecture. After an hour or so I descended.
I walked to Tely, the road being along the edge of the escarpment and affording fine view.
Tely I found interesting for the individual houses and the differences between them, all my photographs were taken from the Modern village below the escarpment, a few looking up to the old village.
I walked back at 2 pm in the heat of the day. It was really quite pleasant after all, although I have a sort of dry mouth or what could be the beginning of a cold or a sore throat – in this dry hot weather it is uncomfortable.
At one pint, after I’d walked for a while, I turned around to look at the escarpment. It was splendid the way the purples & yellow of the grassland rolled down to the escarpment and I was compelled to take a photograph.
I sat down after an hour. A shepherd came by with his flock of goats. He sat next to me. He didn’t want a cigarette but was thankful for the candy I gave to him. When one of his goats tried to cross the other side of the road he called out to them 50 or 60 yards away and they invariable understood but were being obstinate. It seemed a private language of words and clicks & guttural sounds.
Close to Bankass score of people passed me going away from town, all coming form the market. I found a truck and was off to Koro at nightfall.
At the encampment in Koro I had tea with the Muslims. When they make the tea they have a sort of ritual as to how to make it and what is good and what isn’t. Whereas at home we throw a tea bag in a pot, let it stew, then drink the tea, here that would be an abomination! Here they brew the tea and then begin pouring it into tiny cups they back into the tea pot which makes several visits back to the fire. What seems like two or three days to get around to actually drinking the tea may in reality be about 25 minutes of this pouring back and forth. By this is the gross amount of sugar they add is still not enough to soften the formidable brew, which would by this time be suitable as weed killer. However a taste has to be developed.
Then comes the 1st drinking. Again the lengthy process is followed, but this time they add mint leaves, which make it more pleasant. The tealeaves are used a 3rd time, after which they are discarded.
By the “troisieme“ round, the initial power of the tealeaves has been diluted, and the sugar and mint more powerful, it actually becomes good.
I slept outside using my sleeping bag and a hotel mattress.

December 2, 1987
(A)
Today I was ill, I had the runs in the morning.
One German, two Belges and Dutch person and myself sat waiting for a ride. They delighted in my blasphemy of our president and took interest in my respect for certain senators such as Inouye.
After 1:30 pm we became desperate as not one car had passed the border all day. We shelled out 35,000 CFA 7000 each (about $25) to go to Ouahigouya in Burkina Faso, little more than 90 kms distant!
The road was barely a track through scrub. We came to a village where a young mother had a beautiful and unusual hairstyle. Paid her 100 CFA (and Uli the German also 100 CFA) to take her picture. It was worth a whole day.
We arrive at the border post. There was a pleasant feeling there. There guards were amongst the most friendly I have seen. I walked in and out of the post barefoot.
All the dwellings I have seen since Koro were made of earth – quite picturesque.
We arrived in Ouahigouya at night and were brought to the police station. There, a prison cell was visible and those within it. At least they get to see the outside. It is up to the families to feed them as no food is provided.
We all ended up at a hotel there. I boarded terrace under the sky.
In the evening I had a quite delicious salad at the night market and a coffee, which is really hickory flavoring and sweetened condensed milk a few beers put me to sleep. I must have a fever, for my fevers always are accompanied by nightmares.

~~~

I sometimes wonder if the stories we have of giants for example, Gulliver’s Travels, and all stories from the perspective of being quite small, of which in the annals of man there are many – I sometimes wonder if there has not been a sort of telepathy between the human species and that of the smaller species of being.

Book:
I am coming around to the fact that to travel with more than 25 pounds of luggage is pure foolishness. On top of the 25 pounds you may have to add food if you are going camping and also if you buy things. Of course this is intended for general traveling. If there is a specialized purpose or area, the needs may be obviously different, even to the point you may need 60 or 70 pounds. But traveling in the tropics, it should be sufficient to have 25 pounds – even 10 would be ideal. I am beginning to think, bring ½ as much baggage & twice as much money may be a gross understatement, and that the ideal would be to bring one change of clothes, a toothbrush, your passport and an extra $500 to buy things as needed.
I’m thinking perhaps I should change the title & focus of the book to “Jeff Shea’s reflections on travel and the world (at large)“
And to cover such questions as how do you (can you) compare the poverty of one country to another and answer it covering.

December 3, 1987
(A)
Uli and I got a morning bus to Ouagadougou. On the way I noted that large numbers of buzzards congregate where there are people – particularly around the butcher shops and garbage piles.
Again today I was sick and highly uncomfortable. Despite my anxious desire to depart at once, I was forced to wait all day for the truck to depart.
While waiting, I changed money and I tried unsuccessfully to call home. I went to the Algerian embassy and was dismayed when they said it was 1-2 weeks to get a visa.
I paid an extra 1000 CFA ($3.70) to sit in the cab. Uli, who is also going to Niamey was stranded in the back with more than 20 others – a fate worse or nearly worse than death. (Death is not a tragedy, but life can sometimes be.)
We made about 8 or 9 stops on the way out of town and it was well past dark when we left.
Not only was the back packed but the vehicle had quite an exhaust problem. Uli himself has been sick, he says, for a week. What misery to be back there – the best 1000 CFA I even spent.
I don’t like the driver – the people here seem heartless, not happy – grim & sober – not like the Ghanaians. I listened to my cassette.
There is a curfew in Burkina from 11 pm to 5 am, so we were forced to pull over to side of the road.
Fortunately I had asked about that beforehand so I had my sleeping materials handy – they don’t let you touch the baggage on the roof after 11 pm!
I found out last night that Burkina Taso means land of the honest people.
Apparently about one month ago, the President was assassinated, but things seem under control now.
I note that the people on the truck had to fend for themselves – there were no sleeping arrangements and no provisions and they can’t take down their baggage. It keeps hitting me in the head – it seems that the people who own vehicles in these countries treat their passengers like animals. They pack them into the back, the exhaust poisons them, they show no politeness.
It is the same as the police posts. While some of the police have good senses of humor, countless police & customs people are offensive in the way they treat their citizens. They yell, demand and order instead of talk, question and ask.
Frankly I am starting to get fed up with it.

December 4, 1987
(A)
We were on the road at 5:42 am. The various police posts in Burkina were time – consuming.
We didn’t get out of Burkina until about noon.
All of the territory between Ouaga and Niamey along this route is quite similar, dry scrubby landscape, fairly flat, with sparse trees those thinning out as you approach Niamey. It is remarkable that virtually all the dwellings are of earth. The people, even on the roadside are carrying on in their old ways still having to cope with the added intricacies of the new world.
When we got to Niger there were more delays. They had searched through our bags leaving Burkina Faso, then again entering Niger. Apparently some of the passengers did not have their papers in order so there were further delays (and payoffs). When I went to see I was greeted by “que c’est que tu veux??“ That sort of blunt questioning gets tiring especially after you tell hem what it is you want and they continue asking the same question. I had a interesting conversation about West Africa with man from Ghana.
Further down the toad about 60 kms at Torodi they demanded we take all the baggage down and thy search it.
I asked them in my best French, Why is it necessary to search the bags again? They looked incredulous. “For the national security!!“ They tried to talk me down but I held my ground. I told them that we have security in my country without the necessity for such checkpoints.
I could see that they had to make a show because what I was saying was exactly what they don’t want the people to think and people were watching. They of course gave me the first class search.
When they search my bags, I usually explain to them what each item is. I consider it like show & tell. They are essentially curiosity checkpoints, half of the things I have they don’t have access to, and it is rewarding for them to understand better the ailments of the foreign traveler.
I must admit that my reaction to the checkpoint had been somewhat provoked by my conversation with the Ghanaian while waiting at the frontier. We had agreed on many things, that the people of Ghana were the most friendly, that the checkpoints in West Africa were unnecessary, that the people in many places in BFCI & Mali were heartless, that the drivers treated their clients like animals. He said the reason the people of said countries were not civilized and that’s why they acted so.
Me: “The governments of these countries don’t realize that by having so many controls they are strangling themselves, let alone oppressing their citizen. The abundance of controls discourages mobility within the country and the economic constraints discourage. That’s 1200 hours of idle time. If there was no checkpoint, these people would be on their way to home, and these 1200 hours would be put to use in increasing their personal wealth and thus the wealth of their country. Multiply that by all the other checkpoints and customs checkpoints and by 365 days a year and the figure would be staggering.
I know it is not easy to be a president of one of these countries, but I cannot help but think that if they elicited help from foreign countries and made the right contacts that they could work more quickly on solving some of the fundamental problems such as water shortage.
Ghanaian: “Cote D’Ivoire is an example of that. The president there has good contacts with European leaders. At the some time, he has built a great debt for the nation. The other West African Nations have not done that - they say, ”the whites are trying to cheat us.“

Me: “I keep hearing about the economic miracle of Ivory Coast and about how wonderful it is there. But what I saw wasn’t like that. My book says it’s clean, but other than the Plateau area of Abidjan, it’s simply not true.

Ghanaian: “Yes, but if you tell any West African that they won’t believe you. They all think that Cote D’Ivoire is wonderful.

I began to notice that at each customs checkpoint the driver would fold up 500 or 1000 or 1500 CFA in his hand and return without it. I asked him and I was told in Niger every check post costs between 500 and 4000 CFA! Then as we rolled into town a policeman blew his whistle and pointed to the roadside. The driver paid 1000 CFA. Then about 1 km down the road, just nearing the bus terminal, he got called over again for another 1000 CFA!
The final blow was that when we finally got there at 7 pm, I was told that we couldn’t have our baggage until tomorrow! I blew up. I said it was my baggage & I was taking it now!! I climbed up on top of the truck and began unloading my bag. A moment later several police ordered me to come down. I found out that it is customary here if a vehicle arrives after 7 pm that the bags must be held over for examination until morning. I told the policeman I was going to write my government, Niger government, my embassy and the board of tourism in Niger.
I got some flak from the police from saying that it wasn’t right and I felt I was walking a thin line between saying too much and not saying enough.
No sooner that I calmed down than they said they would return our passports in the morning as well. I really had it then. I told them it was internationally illegal to do that, and raised quite a fuss.

At the end, I went in to their office & they gave me my passport & Uli’s as well, saying it was a special favor and telling us not to let any of the locals know.
As we were leaving, I got some nods of support from the locals from having stood up against the bureaucracy.
Uli & I got a room with 2 beds at the Terminus hotel, which was cheaper by sharing than staying at a leas expensive hotel in a single room. The Terminus has a swimming pool, a telephone and most important, I can pay with my Amex card – and by sharing with Uli, we can put all of our expenses on my card which means I’ll get cash from Uli for his share, which I need cause I’m running low.
We went to the Hermitage for diner with 2 other Germans & a Frenchman. The Frenchman imports things from Togs, and all 3 have driven cars down from Germany to sell here.
I satisfied my thirst with cold beer. After the Hermitage we went to a local bar. It was rather depressing – a lot of African men, many whores, a few Europeans & boring music – no dancing.
When I arrived in the hotel I called the office. Cary answered. Doug got on & said to come back! Dad got on. He said there was too much to do, that they needed me. He said it was unable to have anymore waste & that we’d have to shutdown. On the other hand, if all he orders were to get out between now & March we’d have to do $2 million in business! He said they were having to figure who they would have to turn down.
Personally he said the 2 air packages had arrived, that my photos had come out quite well – which is good news. He said Mandy & he had lunch that day (or the day before) and that she was worried about me but he’d tell me about it some other time.
Apparently DHL had said the packages were coming to Niamey & later told me that there were no airlift services other that document delivery. I said I’d get by without it.
I told him I was glad I was needed.
I said that if I could get my visa in a day I’d go across the desert – otherwise I’d just fly home. He told me the date of my flight had been changed to the 21st.I told him I’d call him Monday between 2-3 pm (11-12 pm Niger)
I went skinny dipping before sleep, happy with all news except the prospect of missing my desert trip.

December 5, 1987
(A)
In the morning, I went to the Algerian embassy. The guard said it would take 10 days for a visa & to come back Monday.
I went to the American embassy. A woman over the house phone told me to come in at 9:30 am Monday & gave me the name of the consoler & he said maybe the consoler could call in a chat at the Algerian embassy. She asked me why it was an emergency – I told her the truth – explaining that business was booming.
Uli and I had lunch at the restaurant & then I spent the whole of the afternoon at the pool. I did 20 laps, which got my heart pumping.
In the evening we went back to the Hermitage for dinner with the same group as last night.
I note that one can buy very handsome Mercedes in Germany for 550 marks – about $300. The older cars sell so cheaply because they don’t qualify under the new standards and are thus un-drivable there.
You can take them from Germany to Niger at a slow pace in 2 weeks & sell them for $2-4000.
Example: Purchased Peugot 1000 Deutsch Marks sold 900,000 CFA in Niamey within a few days (no new paint job.) Roughly that translates from $600 to $3500. I think surely I do this the next time I come to Africa.

December 6, 1987
(A)
Time is closing in on me now. No matter what I do only 2 weeks remain!! I was hoping Dad would leave me some slack in there some place. And I know that if, because of a couple of days I miss out on the desert and rush back, I’ll be frustrated that I did so. Yet I cannot say to him I want a few extra days especially in light of the fact that they need help desperately.
It calls for diplomacy. Today I wanted to take photos of interesting things and people but I took only one photo all day. From 10 till 11 I walked out of town. It was very drab & the harmattan dust pervaded the atmosphere. I took a photo crossing the Niger River on the bridge out of town of the clothes laid out to dry on an island in the middle of the river. I eventually reached a hill about 200m high, which I climbed. I could not even see the city for the obstruction of the dust in the air. On the opposite side there was an occasional group of huts in a landscape of what I, ignorant of the definition, would call a classically Sahelian landscape of sand, rock, dry stalks and trees dotting the land.
I walked barefoot in a sandy bed (that may be a river in flood years) back to the road. I took a taxi to town. Outside the hotel I had lunch then stayed by the pool till 4. I walked to the market. There was nothing as I’d expected to excite the eyes and imagination. The Grand Marche was modern complex. The peppers and grains might have made a nice photo but there wasn’t enough light to get a sufficient depth of field in such a close place.
I had dinner at the hotel. Uli left at 10:30 pm. I said goodbye. We exchanged addresses.
The only thing of interest to add is that the German man, Heinz, and I had a rather interesting conversation. He’s fluent in English and has quite a knowledge of world politics and a good sense about these things.
When I travel, I feel the people who have also traveled a fair bit seem to develop a world consciousness. The need for nations, war, borders, checkpoints, protectionism, prejudice, and things of this sort seem to be a thing of the part of people of this genre, myself included.
But to add to this Heinz talked about physics of achieving things like refrigeration without the need for electricity, and I spoke of intelligent use of architecture and receptacles like clay caps instead of plastic bottles and banana leaves instead of plates, all this conversation focused on the many ways we can improve our world, and when I encounter stimulating conversation such as this it makes me feel that I would like to found a world organization to revolutionize our direction.
We had begun talking over dinner. Uli & Heinz explained to me that 400 years ago in Germany a Duke passed a law saying the beer could only be brewed from hops, malt & pure water. They said they liked the law because they never had to worry about what was in their beer. Now the European community was taking Germany to court for refusing to allow beer into Germany unless it met their standards. Most other beer they said was made with corn, rice and acids were used to stabilize it and give it form.
Later he brought me a beer from his truck. It was wrapped in wet toilet paper and was quite cold. He said he wrapped it so and put it under the air conditioner in his room. He said that when they crossed the desert they did the same using the fan in the cab of the truck. Voila! Cold beer in the Sahara!
He said the Romans were the first people to make ice, using the principle that evaporation by blowing air over the surface of water-cools it. They had a device with a hand crank.
Mentioning the air conditioner in the room he said it was a waste of energy, that there are better – more efficient & healthier – ways to keep a space cool. When I said 4 ft thick cement walls, he corrected me saying thick walls were not necessary. He said that the Arabs have had cool houses for centuries by building a well-constructed chimney – for heat rises (and an air current is generated bringing in fresh air).
He said glass steel & cement were not good building tools – but we didn’t much get into what is. I cited the example of Seronera lodge in the Serengeti, of now they used the original kopje & didn’t disturb the rocks.

Heinz says he has not really worked for ten years. (Although he’s got to be back to teach a class in a few weeks.) He buys & sells cars as he is doing now he has two houses.
He is planning a trip by car from Alaska to Tierra Del Fuego.

December 7, 1987
(A)
This morning has been nothing but frustration & I feel I’ll not get the Algerian visa as promised help will only be a letter. I’m not waiting at the US embassy.
This whole day turned out to be miserable with little relief. I am thankful to have a sound body & mind, happy to be alive and things are not bad. I would still rate today about a two. I come on these holidays to enjoy myself, etc. I have been spending all my time making arrangements for flights, etc. It is not only not fun, it’s a drag. Furthermore, if I had my own truck or car it would be tremendously easier to effect getting around. The next time I go to West Africa or central Africa, I’m going to bring my own vehicle. I feel to be behind the times what with everyone else arriving here by vehicle.
The Algerians flatly refused to help me and even my own embassy seems infected with Nigeritus.
After a morning of this I spent the afternoon trying to figure out how to fly out of here. I thought I had a good bet on Lome – Abj – Akar – Casablanca on Dec. 15, but here were 3 problems with that:

I) The Lome – Abi leg wasn’t confirmed
II) It cost $900
III) When I talked to dad on the phone and told him I’d be home the 21st he said “I had hoped you’d be home this weekend!“ I can take a hint.

When I told dad I couldn’t get a visa, he said “well… next year!“ and said something like maybe we’ll come with you when I talked about driving across the desert.
I hope he’s serious and if so a definite change for the better has arrived.
Doug got on the line.

I started laughing because when Dad got back [on] he unplugged my terminal & the system was operating without a console terminal for the past 5 weeks!! Not until the system went down did Doug accidentally discover that by plugging a terminal into the cable did the system go back on. Of course, it was waiting for the commands from the console.
So, when I got off the phone it was settled. That I’d better look for a flight home sooner than later, and that to me meant no later than my original return date 14 Dec 87

December 8, 1987
(A)
Another agonizing morning finding the right flight I could fly home tomorrow night on Air France but the fight was 428,000 CFA about $1575, furthermore, the prospect of a 26 hour flight didn’t exactly appeal to me.

I. Fly to Barcelona Friday morning 7:10 am arrive 3:20 pm in Barcelona 86,500 youth fare = $315 (7:10-12:30-14:15-15:20)
II. Reserved 14 Dec Madrid-SF. 11:30 am – 1:20 pm arrive SF 8:29 pm
5:20 – 8:29 pm

The choice I took would get me home on schedule cast $315 + 110 to Madrid + 648 = 1073, which save a minimum of $502 over the other choices. But most importantly I am making the gesture of coming home a week earlier so dad gets the feeling. That if I’m traveling and holding down a job at the same time that he can trust me –
I) To return on time
II) To be on call if he needs me
III) That I am capable of overcoming the logistical problems involved with working out how to get home when needed or get home as originally planned when I run into problems.

Prior to the phone call, Heinz & I went to a Lebanese restaurant L’Orientale, which was quite good.

December 9, 1987
(A)
One of 2 days to kick back and relax at last. Since I have no cash to spare I can forget about going out side of Niamey – I have to stay by the hotel because I can charge my meals on the credit card.
I’m forced to relax. So that’s what I did. Fortunately they have a full size swimming pool.

December 10, 1987
(A)
My last day in Africa. I read the time magazine Heinz gave to me swam 40 laps. Went to Lebanese rest again for dinner, went to museum in afternoon – traded away all the things I didn’t need any longer for a purse & two wallets (snake skin).

December 11, 1987
(A)
7 am Ouagadougou runway airport on plane stopover.
My basic travel objective, to cross the Sahara, got lost among the smaller objectives, and ultimately was overshadowed by what I suppose was a more important objective, to test out the possibility of import/export as a means to support travel. If it is successful, the payoff may overwhelm any achievement of travel that could be achieved in this trip.
One thing that did not occur to me when debating in Barcelona over whether to stay the night or not: What’s the weather like in Madrid? Well, I’ll tell you: It’s raining like mad!! That’s O.K. I’ll then walk in the rain: but I am determined to see Madrid. I’m here for the weekend. A few churches, a bullfight if I’m lucky, walk the street, eat the food, drink the beer.
Traveling is like riding a wave.

I notice they’ve got a metro here. We’ve left 19 minute ago and now we’ve at Cartegena station.
I bought a dictionary in Barcelona to brush up on my Spanish, and now my Spanish is 100% better already – truly. By Sunday I should be rolling.
Just like National Geo said – superb traffic jams.
My main pastime here will be photography Indoor it necessary.

Night watched - Los Intocables de Eliot Ness (the Untouchables) in Spanish. Note McD, Wendy’s, etc, here serve beer. Great idea. Checked into Soledad Hostel.

December 12, 1987
(A)(E)
The thread of life is hope
The mother of hope is growth
The essence of growth is change
The father of change is energy.

Life is a maze of hope
Like the maze of a city’s streets
Behind each corner
May live visions of beauty.

We ride the wave of change.
Visions of beauty are the essence
of happiness!

I haven’t coffee (with milk) like this for years – since Italy 1975!!
McDonald’s serves beer.
The area around my hotel Plaza Del Sol, has more cafes, cervezerias restaurants & bars than even with an ailing dollar.
Meat raviolis with crème sauce 400 (3.85)Pts. (pesetas) Rivals Buca Giovanni, San Francisco a large plate.

Walked from 11:12 am returned 6:21 to hotel. Rested till 9:12 pm out again. This time its dinner. Using credit card. Just next to plaza Mayor Nemu Del Dia 2335 Psts.

#1 Garlic Soup with egg fabulous. Breaded with egg fried in
#2 Beer (Cinco Estreelas) Mahou grand, fabulous
#3 Roast suckling pig with boiled potatoes.
The only complaint I have is that there was too much & it was so good I felt obligated to eat it!!
Fabulous I never had anything like it.
I’ve never had service like this before. They leave you totally alone in between courses. But when I walked in I was immediately seated, immediately told him I wanted the menu of the day, immediately was asked if I wanted beer or wine, cold beer was brought immediately, shortly afterwards. The soup was brought. They didn’t even look at me once while I ate but the moment I was through with the soup the plate was whisked away. Moments later the pig was brought. When my bottle was empty it was taken away. I placed my fork & knife on the plate in finished position I was asked: “Terminados?“ within a minute & after polite inquiry the plate was withdrawn. Moment later the creme caramel arrived.
Hostel del Cardenal bar restaurant Jardin Residencia Telefons 22.49.00 managed by Botin of Madrid. I guess they should be good they have been in business since 1725.

#4 Creme caramel
Excellent.
The whole time people come in through the door. There is a hustle, but it is quiet. It is elegant yet simple. It is classy yet the whole tome I feel like I’ve pulled into a roadside inn & my horse is outside like it’s the 1700. And I felt that way before I found out it was started in 1725!!

The whole day in Madrid & I’ve yet to see anyone yell at another. No one has bothered me. Everyone has been polite to one another. Everyone seems, relaxed, mellow,

#5 coffee excellent
I think I’ll wait 2 days to eat again. Watching them serve everyone is truly amazing. They are artists. They are quick, efficient graceful, polite and very highly organized.
They were never more than 2 or 3 seconds behind my thoughts.

End of journal

Notes

Outline of Book on Traveling

A. Personal Objectives – Everyone travels for a reason. What are your reasons? To satisfy curiosity, to educate oneself. To relax, to experience life in a different culture, to have an exciting time, to take photographs, to enjoy, buying things, etc.

B. Getting Going – Where to choose to go. How to deal with finance. length of the journey. Straightening out personal matters. This section would take someone from zero to reality – especially for those who find themselves thinking they can’t afford it but really want to go.

1. Where to go:
I) the first world – USA, Canada, Europe West, Australia
II) the 2nd world – communist block nations in Europe & Asia
III) the 3 world – Central & So. America, Africa, Asia

2. Dealing with finances – whatever you can scrape together will suffice. Taking care of all the details: car registration, rents, storage, safety deposit boxes, taxes, can you keep your job or do you have to quit.

3. Length of journey – Going fast, going slow, whether or not to make specific plans, personal preferences, making use of maps, studying, basic principles of probability – for e.g. what is the likelihood you can find transport from one place to the other. If you are operating under a return date, how you should determine how much you can undertake. There’s always some sort of schedule if you’re moving. Merits of sitting still vs. Merits of taking in the sights.

4. Personal Matters – How to deal with relationships & job.

5. Medicines – Most to get, world health situation, malaria & what the score is, diarrhea – what medicines to bring for gastrointestinal disorders – what medicines you can get, what you can do to prevent it – peeled fruits, dry countries, the possibility that alcohol can help prevent it, the safeness of a lot of street food, other drugs, what to do if you get diarrhea, malaria, and other situations, keep prescriptions in their containers, Pepto-Bismol tablets

6. Baggage – the obvious advantages of traveling light, what pack to get, tennis shoes vs. hiking boots, maps, therma-rest, small flashlight, recommended equipment (canteens, type: stove, sunglasses, hat, sleeping bag)

7. Visas – visa services if you are under time constraints, embassies & consulates, cities wish a lot of embassies, travel photographs getting a large passport, prices vary for the same visa, getting a visa in a pinch, country hopping

8. Methods of traveling – Advantages, Disadvantages, when to use them, where to use them,
1. Walking

2. Road
A. Buses
B. Your own car
C. Trucks
D. Hitching

3. Rail

4. Plane:
A. International
B. Private planes

5. Water:
A. Ship
B. Sail boats
C. Local boats
D. Canoes
E. Rafts
F. Kayaks

9. Crime and protection of your possession and yourself.
1. There are safe areas where no one will ???, responsible people, asking people to watch them, paying people to watch them,
How to carry your bags, putting your passport & money in a holder or no, passive crime, non- violent crime, violent crime – where you are likely to encounter it, linking up wish people – safety advantages & disadvantages, psychology of the criminal, advantages of looking non–affluent, mountain people, village people, city people and relative safety. The concept of society & people as a whole being good and how this works to your advantage, not displaying your wealth, understanding what causes people to take your things, travel insurance, police reports, dividing your risk by putting offsetting things in different bags, trains, leaving stations, making people aware of your awareness, looking for avoiding trouble before it finds you. (People that have a business can’t run away – leave it with them).
2. Dealing with authorities – not allowing them to get you behind closed doors, politeness, firmness, getting one authority to rescue from another, insistence on doing your business in the public eye, getting the public to rescue you from authorities, when authorities ask for your possessions, refusing them politely. Acting casual, you don’t have to put up with them acting out of line, special tactics, the oddball troublemaker, through embarrassment and/or intimidation.
3. Frequent inventories and cleaning of your possessions. Water damage, air drying things out, carrying your own bags, getting assurances from people, asking other travelers what is ahead and asking local people.
4. Getting several opinions on the safety of the place you’re at & the place you’re going. Hearsay – opt for the opinion of the person that has actually been there.

10. The merits of communication with the locals - self-education

A. Language – you’ll find getting a book on the language and studying it will open up a new world to you, even its only for the time your stay there. Lingua franca
B. Traveling on local transport.
C. Eating food on the street.
D. Staying in villages
E. Studying: maps, botany, flora, fauna, and history
F. Asking questions.

11. Accommodation: Leaving things at the receptions, ask 2 or 3 times for a room if they say there is none, check the room over before leaving.

12. Dealing with street vendors try looking them straight in the eye & saying you’re not interested, friendly and then walking away they seem to get the message – Bargaining, offers.

13. Buying, selling and sending. Choices in sending home:
A. surface mail – good countries and bad, insurance, keeping track of receipts & numbers. How long will it take.
B. air mail
C. DHL
D. shipping to the companies
E. giving stuff to someone returning

Note: format:
The format of this book should be that it should be written & put together with a style that gets across a message.

For e.g., if it is dry as the notes preceding, it will cause boredom. It should be fun.
For e.g., when talking of weight, I could write:

You should be able to dance with your pack. If you can’t dance with your pack on your back you can be sure you’re carrying too much. What are you going to do when you are walking down the street at night in Zaire & they grab you & pull you into a bar & expect you to dance?

Importance vs. Convenience

Ask yourself: is it necessary or am I just taking because I may need it? (See ahead ½ book)
End of outline of book

Travel objectives /photo/tap-exp./learned

1. I visited 7 countries I’d not seen before. (Greece, Togo, Ghana, CI, Mali, BF, Niger)
2. I visited 8 capitals (including Madrid) I’d not seen before.
3. I visited 4 new game parks (Masai Mara, Nakuru, Meru, Serengeti)
4. Saw Kisangani Fishermen
5. Visited Dogon land
6. Saw Niger River
7. Acquainted myself with West Africa and the Sahel
8. Walked on a Greek Island
9. Photographed internationally for the first time with 2 ¼ format including photographing game animals
10. purchased trade beads
11. masks from West Africa
12. Ivory from Zaire
13. Masai jewelry
14. Elephant hair bracelets
15. Cloth form Mali
16. Leather goods from W. Africa
17. Photographed Masai, West Africans, Zairois hair-dos.
18. Traveled with my father
19. Collected modern Zaire music
20. Made contract with Mission Procure ???
21. made contact in Arusha
22. Nairobi ???
23. Swam in Atlantic Ocean
24. Found out valuable(?) information on malachite prices, locations and possible transport from Zaire
25. Potential of zebra skins, Leopard skins, even Rhino Horn(legally) for museum exhibit
26. Got more leopard teeth
27. Brought back much Masai and Zaire music
28. Learned about Rollei (descriptions omitted)
29. I learned about airfreight

What I want to do when I get home:
1. Sell Pentax & all Pentax gear. After assuring Rollei is so great
2. Buy Red Orange UV filters for Rollei, buy telescopic lens……… 35mm & learn to use flash, assess whether you can hand hold below 1/125 and what he limits are. Blow up best print to Joe, try to get in a show.
3. Sell most of my 35mm blowups at whatever price you must – and sell most frames.
4. get rid of extra paraphernalia in drawers & closet
5. be more well groomed personally, nice clothes 6. pay off debts & buy another house
7. have more living space
8. spend a few $ up to a grand or two even but …… on a home…..system so I can start enjoying music in high fidelity.
9. Pop for a synthesizer, stereo drum machine, next…….. go heavy on drum work, study the Zairiam rhythms for good dancing find a bass player and vocalists, maybe 2 compatible female vocalists. Drums drums, drums maybe even a Conga player. Devote ¾ of your time to drum for a while.
10. study French for 2 years solid.
11. search around for a good travel mobile, preferably something you can sleep in and parts aren’t too hard to find.
12. Buy a bicycle 10 speed or 15 speed
13. Have proper cabinets built for photographic materials slides film new & exposed 2-¼ film accessories camera.
14. Seek out & keep trying for the perfect travel tools.
Rest of list omitted.

BOOKS & MOVIES:
9. Traumstrasse der Welt or “Dreamstreet of the World“ by Walt Disney about 30 years ago of a driving trip from Alaska to Tierra Del Fuego (which inspired Heinz to do his proposed trip)

Suggest Packing list & why:
I. An oversized pack. Packs shouldn’t be heavy. A large pack can be light, but it affords you room to dump your stuff in rather than squeeze it, it allows you room. If you get where you’re going and want to trek, you’ve got room to put your food. If you find great buys it allows you to have room for all the extra stuff. (baffle on top)

Recommended:
Lowe special Expedition weight:____________________
II. A medium down sleeping beg with about ____ ounces of goose (?)down.
Use your sleeping bag as a multi-purpose item – it allows you to cut down drastically on the amount of heavy clothing you have to bring. Even in warm climates at night you can use the bag open to throw over yourself
Recommended:
Weight:
(Note: if you are definitely only in tropics, just bring a sleeping sheet maybe and substitute sweater.)
III. A ground tarp. Several purposes – Ideally it should be rubber, could be nylon. Can double as a rain tent and poncho
Recommended:
Weight :__________Ibs.
(Gore-Tex poncho??
IV. Cushioned mat. Make seeping anywhere acceptable. Between the bag & the tarp, you’re set.
Recommended:_____________________
Weight:________________
V. All fuel stove & clean kit. The ________ stove burns all (check out Coleman with pot; note: with the Coleman you don’t need a pot.)

Fuels:
list : white gas
kerosene
diesel
Can find fuel almost anywhere. Benzene, alcohol
Weight:_________________________________
With fuel bottle pint
VI. Pot at least lid quart (see 5) (say you don’t need it you have Coleman)
VII. plastic cup (2 cups)(say 5) fork, 1 spoon
VIII. One camera with
explain: 35mm (your choice ( plastic body) hood. (lens covers)
IX. one lightweight Walkman, 1 tape 90 minutes of your favorite music. You can buy tapes on the way OK if you prefer radio, shortwave radio, Sony 7 band very small.
X. Day pack for around town
XI. dental floss, Lomotil, sulpha drug, water purification tablets (drink well water), Malaria pills, aspirin, tooth brush, toothpaste, Neosporin ointment, one washing brush, bar soap! (6 Fansidar), shaver.
XII. One map
XIII one very lightweight cloth hat or visor
XIV. Windbreaker, sandals one pair tennis shoes (or high tops), 2 pairs white socks, one dark, 2 pair pants, 2 pair shorts, 2 T-shirts one short sleeve or dress shirt, thermal shirt, 2-5 underwear, swim suit (nylon). One light tight knit wool sweater.
What about silk goods? Liner for seeping bag, shirts, socks, thermals pants.
XV. One flashlight using one or two AA batteries (can you get these anywhere in the world?)(you can get them in Niamey.)
XVI. Flat small calculator, one digital watch with alarm.
XVII. Sunglasses
XVIII. Bic lighter, needle thread, (mirror if you’re going alone for reflecting signal in case of accident)
XIX. 1 lightweight mosquito net with supports (not ceiling type unless you are two
XX. an aluminum army surplus canteen with cork in the lid.________
Avoid plastic bottles – the seals don’t hold.
Heinz says there’s a new cloth that holds water & is better like Gortex
XXI. a Swiss army knife
Pack
Fork
Knife
Spoon
1 Jeans
1(2) shorts
3 or 4 underwear
1 shirt
sweater
2 T-shirts
waterproof (gortex)
Poncho
Needle & thread
Bigger Knife
Scissors
Leather boots/sandals
Money money money
Camera & film
Shaver, soap, toothbrush
Toothpaste, lip balm
Flashlight pen
Water bottle

BE A MACROBIOTIC traveler. what you don’t need to bring: “if you don’t have it you can probably buy it.

I. Any diarrhea medicines other than those mentioned: I suspect Pepto-Bismol tablets don’t work for Third world many times: Liquids are too heavy period. Lomotil will stop you. If it’s serious, take the sulpha.
II. A bunch of clothes: if you’re going to the mountains in a First World country – you can buy it there. 2nd world country – it’s probably a guided trip, 3rd world – you can probably buy extra warm clothes there (e.g. Katmandu, Cuzco)
III. Stuff bags with uses.
IV. You shouldn’t need extra batteries. A second anything is only a convenience.
V. Things people consider that are essential that aren’t:
A. Travel Books – they only confuse you e.g. “nestled in a green hollow night in the mountain.”
Read before you go. If you need, to photocopy it.
VI. Binoculars – even at game parks
VII. Last: Anything not mentioned that you don’t really need!

— The only true success is long-lasting feelings of success, nothing more nothing less. Success is the only remedy out of the human situation. Success comes about through self-acceptance, which can only come about being accepted by some person, animal or thing, by some niche into the universe. Love, then, is light and light is love.

Important contacts:

1. Hannes Pretorius concering buying land in Tanzania
Box 835
Arusha, Tanzania
Owns 8500 acre farm outside Ngorongoro Crater area met at Olduvai Gorge, Tanzania

2. Mel Wright photographer & traveler
133 West 14 th street
New York, NY 10011
(212 243-8732
met in Goma, Zaire

3. Njambi Inc. Concerning imports
P.O.Box 12058
Nairobi,Kena

4.Jim Fowler
Fowler Center for Wildlife Education
46 E. 70th st.
New York NY 10021
(212) 744-3441

host of Wild Kingdom met in Bukavu, Zaire at Hotel Residence

5. Paul Sharpe
Box 4715
Aspen, Colorado 81612
Kayaker/cinematographer
1986 Yangze river Expedition met at 4 dinner table

6. Ralph Goodmurphy
25 Hackberry Road
Weston Connecticut 06883 USA
Met in Goma, been to over 80 countries 10 years

7.Franck (Franeis)Bole —- my home address
20 bP 124 Abioljan 20
Franck Bole Jirof Anglais
Lycee MUNICIPAL
BP 33 SAUATICUILA, COTE D’IVOIRE Cynthia Wheeler – 724- 0782 – sister

8. Katherine/ee / Human
1067 First Avenve Svite 4-D
New York City 10022
(212) 371-5275 WK 279-2838

Books & movies

1. „ The Congo I Knew“ 1935 Armand Denis (Belgium??)- movie
2. „First Contact“ about New Guinea showed at Margaret Mead film festival 1984, call museum of Natural History - movie

Mask purchased in Man:
Price Origin Description
#1. 12000 Korhozo
statve/mask
#2. 12000 Dan Mask with backing
#3. 12000 Dan Mask-DAMANE woman with cowried red
#4. 12000 Dan Mask-MAN with long snout with backing
#5. 12000 Dan fMask-MAN woman gentle with leets
#6. 3500 statue form Korgozo Kalmo the bird
#7. 6500 Gabon mask (round)

Cash Recap:
11/24
arex 20×6 + 50XII + BAR 50x 4 + 100 US + 31500 CFA/271 = $ 1086

If I spend $ 286 on masks & postage I’ll have $ 800/27 days left = $30 for expenses etc.

11/24 night 59/25CFA/274$ = $ 215.78
+ AMEX 50×3 + 20×6 + BAR 50 x 4
+ $ 100CASH = $ 785.78
which means I spent $ 200 – on artifacts but I spent $40 elswhere

Places to go:

1. Glacier National Park the very NW corner of Montana,Many Glacier Lodge lake Mc Donald lodge,swift Current lodge White fish, Montana, fly into Kalispell, conect Misoula
2. Waterton Park, Albeita Prince of Wales Hotel (fanstastic) walk to Grante Park Chalet Speny Chalet
3. Madagascar!
4. Ghana! The waimest people trip ever.
5. Swaziland!
6. Definitely see more of Mali
7. the Northern lights- I think: above Arctic circle in Winter
___________________________________________________________________

FI:
Me a ko Abidjan: I’m going to Ab.
Ohinay = nose
V din fe sen = what is your name?
So ko hin = where uou going
Di abi = NO
Ane = YES
V nguye ni mase = are u not going to disgrase us.
Uniye betena fefe = are you going to be OK with us?
Wo ne yeu beteua fefee e

Prices of things 1987 ; FOOD
Ghana : Deep fried plaintain 10 cedis each about 3 with
Beans in is serving of 10 cedis each about 3
Makes a whole meal for 60c a big meal = about $0.25
Oranges rady to eat 3 for 20 cedis = $0.09
Ivory Coast: bananas 4 for 25 CFA = $ 0.08
Togo : 3 coconut for 100 CFA = 33CFA each ore 13c ready to drink then eat
Niger :beer ranges for a large bottle cold abut guart or 750 ce: 220 CFA to 450 CFA brockettes 100 CFA ranging in arze from fairly small to quite large coffee with milk:1/2 chicken = 500 CFA
Mali : Mopti 1 orange 25 CFA!
Niamey: fanta 65 CFA

Rolls of Film
# 28 B&W32 Manankoro, Tienko to Mali all 11/26
29 B&W 400 fir.11/29
30 B&W 32 MOPTI fir 11/29
32 FU 400 Bozo village Songrai Touarey fir. 11/29
32 B&W 400 Touarey
33 B&W 32
34 KO64
35 FU 100 begin BF fin.mad 12/12/87
36 FU 400 Madrid
37 FU400 Madrid end of tup.
39
40
40 Grand Canyon 4/88

42
43
44
45 Grand Canyon 4/88
46
47 Grand Canyon 4/88

Music:

1. Zaire : Disque:Nadine.
Coposeur:Mbilia Bel
Orchestre: Afrisa Tabu Ley

2.Zaire: Titre:Nqunci
composeur: Tabu Ley et Franco

3.Zaire: Titre: Kafu lu mayaza
Tabu Ley

4.Zaire Tshala Muana La Divine
Orchestre:Tshala Muana

5.Guadelupe: Kasave
„auna reo?“

6.Nigeria: Fela (Zombie)

7.USA: Or John, the Night
Trapper
„I’m Dr. John the night tripper the got a setchel of gri-gri in my hand Day tripping and back down the bayow. They cald the me the gri-gri man (see Fulani)I walk on ilded splenters.

8.Merveiles du pases
African Fiesta (1962-63) Nico – Rochereau – 12edi
Poste 1 (1) Bilonbe ya Africa (Nies)
(2) Mwasi Abandak a (Rock)
(3) Pesa Le Tubu (Koch)
(4) vivo Africa (izedi)
poste 2 (1) Rythmo ya suka
(2) Moto Abungoha (Nico)
(3) Vidas (Nigo)
(4)Togei Na Sangu (NKO)
9. EMPIRE BAKUBA
A. (1) Sombokula ( Kabade Yamparya)
(2) chicofile
B. (1)Ogangaki
(2) Na Ndimoke Te Mboyo
Orchestra: Empire Bakuba
Janse: Kwasa – kwesu seigveur
10. Tabu Ley
A. (1) Sacramento (Tabu Ley
(2) Adija ( Makondele Dav)
B. (1)Papa Do (Tabu Ley)
(2)Naye Na Tembe (Shaba)
11. 12“Single South Afican Bend.Sheb Hot song

12. Zaiko Panga Panga papa oirar? (amor?)

Boxes

#1 Air Nairobi 10/20/87 426.57 parcel#
708 : Masai for musai mara wedding nechlaces(2)22 amber
bends red/brown, wellow red blue heads and personal effects
Vermout
#2 Dad Nairobi 10/28
:blue North face stuff bag w/4 yards cloth batik 2 other batiks 1 masai belt.
#3 Dad Nariobi 10/28
: Keys 3 Turkana necklaces, bag of Greek coins Batik of giraffe & klimjaro map of Greece and Tanzania.Note:I thought I gove dad 10 elephant hair.
#4 Dad Nairobi
: 120 film rolls 3,5,7,9,11,13
#5 Air Nairobi 10/30 PARCEL # 070 30.oct.87
708 : 2 masai necklaces from Anesha
vermont
#6 Air Nariobi 10/28 PARCEL # 070 30.oct.87
708 : 28 elephant hair bracelets 1 special elephant hair bracelet 10 strands glass beads necklace w/9 ember beads and 8 silver beads masai medallion necklace, 1 long masai earrings 4 short masai earrings 2 copper bracelets(masai have a ornaments 2 masi bracelets 1 masai necklace) (string of 2 amber 3 siver and 1 trade bead 2 glass stirmp with pouch 3 elephant hair rings 1 small piece red amber)
#7 Sea Nairobi 11/2 PARCEL #170 swahili book safari jacket roll #21 of 120
165 film 1 pad 1 elephant hair bracelet2 slides 3 begs:white/maroon/green tul grey/white tan/yellow 5kg coffee
#8 Sea Nairobi Parcel 169 2 nov,87
708 : 5 kg coffee 7 begs: (turgu/yellow w/leathe), (tury & yellow w/o lest)(tun/grey)(white) ( maroon/brpwn/white/green w/leateher)(brown & grey w/leather)(white/brown &tan)
vermont
#9 DHL Nairobi ari frt#
165 :finacial statement forwarding addresses 120 film rolls l lake2,4,6,8,10,12,14,15,16,
of 17,18,19 w/ instructions note

#10 DHL Kinshasa 9 kg air frt# prices of ivory (23)
$s 1,2,,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,18,19,20,21,22,23,30
total purchase rabve Z= 39830
= 318.88
freight = 320.00

Rolls of film.
Fu 100 # 1. Santorini, Greece Sent Box!
Fu 100 2. Santorini Greece DHL, NAI
Ko 32 3. Athens- Reft Valley
Fu 100 4. Masai Mara DHL, NAI
Fu100 5. Masai Mara Dad
Fu 100 6. Masai Mara DHL NAI
Ko 32 7. Masai Mara Dad
Fu 100 8. Masai Mara DHL NAI
Ko/64 9. Nakuru – Nyahururu Dad
Fu 100 10. New DHL NAI
11. Mava-enroute Manyara Dad
12. enrout Man art Manyara DHL NAI
Ko/64 13. Manyara-Sronera Dad pushed 100
Ko 32 14.Seionea DHL NAI
Fu 100 15. Ngorongoro DHL NAI
Ko/64 16. Ngoro-Olduvai -? DHL, NAI
Ko/64 17.
Fu 400 18. Hills of Tonyano DHL NAI
TRIX400 19. Tarongeri DHL NAI
*Fu 100 20. Pumutani Carrying
Fu 100 21. Pumutani Box#7
Fu 100 22. finished Bukova 11/5
Fu 100 23. Kisangani Fishermen.
Ko 64 24. finished Elmina, Ghana 11/18
Fu 100 25. Ghana Cast 11/18
Fu 100 26. begin Ghana Coast end Kumasi busstation 11/20
Fu 100 27. begin 11/20 finished border Corte D’Ivoire 11/20

Ideals to help me analyze

Cameroun artifacts Bamenda mtns Mokolo 8 14 days
Nigeria mountains around Jos & the north 6 10 days
Benin Abomey artifacts 7 4 days
Togo artifacts & atmosphere 7 4 days
Ghana people & cloth 7 4 days
Ivory Coast just to go there 6 5 days
Mali Tinbuktu Mopti 10 20 days
B:Faso just to see it 6 5 days
Niger to travel through desert 9 6 days
Algeria to cross Sahara 10 7 days
Morocco to go to Cas, FeyMai. 9 8 days
Spain to go home -10- 2 days
89 days

Then I have roughly 1/3nd to 3/2 as much time as I need to see a minimum. The I have to make a choice. An idea comes to mind.Dad said if i come home in 6 weeks I could do 6 weeks next yea.That would give me 2 weeks.Asy I could fly to Nigeria & go directly to Marocco in 3 weeks. Unfortunately, it would mean misssing some countries which are so close by and easy to see. I am beginning toclearly see that regardless of what I do I will be much happier the sooner I cover new territory. Let’s discuss the relative meuts.
A.to fly to Cameroun. B.fly to Lagos C. Fly to Abidjan D. Fly in betweenLA&ABI

A B
GOOD / BAD FOR / NOT
1.get to Douala 1. If will desode minimum 1.I’llbe further 1.May be denge-
& Mali packgs. A week of what I have up and will rous at night
2.go to Bomenda left & maybe 2 actrally have
3.if road is good 2.i think I will feel pressure time to see part
4. 3.I could devise a trip at a of Nigeria,Benin,
trip at a later date.Paris Togo,Ghana,Ivory
Bangui Douala Gabon Coast,Maybe I
Congo Kinshasa could fly from
Agadey & proceed
Across Sahara
2.I can fly form
Ouagodogor if I
Need to

C D

FOR: / AGAINST FOR / AGAINST
1.I can back track 1.Because Abidjan doesn’t 1.If I fly to Togo
my way across to appeal to me as much I’d if affords a world
Lagos & judge my rather start offehr other of pass.bettera
Time better & make way. A.I cantravel to
My way up. Benin back to Togo
2.almost certainly & than on to Ghana
good focilitu Cote Ivorie BF.
2.I have the latitude
to go eather way

• All things considered (not all written down) I decide to fly to Togo in 2 days – and I deel pleased with this decision.

John Jeffrey Shea
486 UTAH STREET,SAN FRANCISCO,
CALIFORNIA,94107,USA